Later, after the sun had set we found the German Bakery. We had walked down to the other end of the riverbank. There was boat party just setting off. It was a 40th wedding anniversary party. Everyone was decked out in their finery and looked splendid. We were assured that the happy couple were just that; happy. As the two boats set off we walked towards the main Ghats. As we went we had to navigate our way around the sewerage pipes that discharged the city effluence into the Ganges. As the Wedding Anniversary boat went upstream the pipe sent its contents the other way on a long slow journey towards Calcutta.


The views from the rooftop of the bakery offered, so the guide book told us, unparalleled views of the Varanasi skyline. It actually gave us an unparalleled  view of the adjacent communications mast. It did not matter. The weather had closed in and a storm was coming. We sat on the rooftop terrace, drank mango lassi and watched the lightning flicker around the city.

During the night I awoke with a sense of utter urgency and made my own, not insignificant contribution the pollution floating towards Calcutta.

I spent most of Sunday in bed.