I have always felt that’s a privilege to travel and felt that one should not do it carelessly. Travel touches so many other people who, on the whole, treat you with kindness and generosity. Sometimes however things go wrong and all you can do in those circumstances is to keep your nerve and get through it. Even in the bad times though there can be some unexpected kindness that helps compensate. Sometimes, when you are lucky, you get one of those days that is so wonderful that it stands on its own as a perfect frozen moment.
This was one of those days.
I won’t attempt to describe it except to say that we stayed in the Tabo Monastery guesthouse. The Monastery is the oldest functioning Buddhist monument in India and the Himalayas. We were taken into its dark inner temple by the Lama, and in torch light, shown secrets that were created in 996 AD. We were given white scarves and blessings by the Lama of the Dhankar Monastery then cycled through the dry dusty landscape towards the Kee Monastery. There we met the Lama who showed us around, unlocking rooms and ushering us in as he went. In one room there was a metal encased Stupa about 10 ft heigh and decorated with emeralds and other precious stones containing ashes of the 6th to the 13th Dali Lamas. In another dark room he drew back the veils showing us more ancient secrets. Afterwards he took us into his private room and gave us tea and cake before giving us his blessing and waving us off.
There is magic in the Spiti Valley, you should go and find it.